Angelo Gaja 2004 wines - Piedmont vintage report

Following the welcome autumn rains in 2003, there was a cold winter with plenty of snow. A further large amount of rain then fell in the first few months of 2004. This completely restored soil water reserves which had been reduced considerably by the very hot, dry summer of 2003.

This then continued intermittently until the beginning of May, which delayed the start of the budding cycle of the vine. Initially this caused concern amongst growers about the possibility of early attacks of downy mildew, which fortunately did not take place.

However although the growers of the Langhe and Roero may have been worried about downy mildew, the pathogen which kept them most occupied was powdery mildew, which hit the vineyards heavily from the first few days of July due to the relatively high humidity. Luckily this proved to be only a short term problem.

The following months were distinguished by summery temperatures which were never too high, with almost no periods of oppressive heat or rain. These conditions allowed for good, even development of medium-to-large sized bunches. The delay in the budding and the moderate summer temperatures allowed the vine to develop normally, though the expected ripening period at the end of August was delayed by at least 10 days.

The distinguishing feature of the 2004 vintage was the arrival in Piedmont region of an anticyclone, which lasted throughout September and early October, with days full of sunshine, little rainfall, and temperatures above the seasonal average. This meant that the grapes enjoyed an extended (and very regular) ripening period and could be picked when they were perfectly healthy and ripe. This allowed growers to enjoy a calm, anxiety-freeharvest!

Hail did hit Piedmont on the morning of 8^th August, but only involving a very limited strip in the Barolo area.

The harvesting of the grapes began later in 2004 than in the particularly early recent vintages such as the 2003 - and the standard of quality of the grapes was much higher than first expected. It was also a particularly good year for astute growers who attained a balance between bunch numbers, yields and vegetative growth of the vine.

Picking of the white varieties began around 10-15 September with Chardonnay, followed by Sauvignon Blanc and Arneis. The general situation was very good, with average alcohol, balancing acidity levels and intense aromas.

A few days later, harvesting of the Dolcetto variety began in its four areas of production. It was completed between the end of September and the beginning of October, producing wines of great potential, with good alcohol levels, fine ripe acidity, and deep colour.

After a short break, Barbera and Nebbiolo varieties were picked over a succession of days of sunshine mixed with others which were cooler.

The resulting wines are very concentrated, with complexity, superb balance and great aromatic intensity. The balance between fruit intensity, ripeness of tannins, acidity andalcohol is the best for many years.

Although expectations were muted to begin with, it became apparent that as the season progressed and the harvest came in that this was potentially a very great year. Time will tell, as ever, but the structure and intensity of these wines is outstanding. As long as growers kept crops down and maintained healthy canopies, then they will have every confidence in the potential of their wines.

Angelo Gaja was enthralled by the quality, purity and intensity of his Barbaresco and Langhe Crus. When we tasted them with him on 20 March, we were captivated by the sheer vitality, concentration and balance. These wines have the potential to be some of the greatest he has produced in the last twenty years and we recommend them unreservedly.

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