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Domaine Marquis d'Angerville
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville
The wines are wonderful of course with each vineyard portrayed with clarity and distinction via each wine, their different qualities coming through and enabling you to discover the whole village without leaving the cellar.
With yields in 2010 down by around 30% on average, and more than 40% in Clos des Ducs, you could forgive Guillaume d'Angerville for not being philosophical. But true to form, in Guillaume's view it was far "better to have low quantity and high quality, rather than the other way round". And quality is indeed high here, with the line up containing some simply regal wines that command all they survey.
Stepping into the cellar to taste with Guillaume is one of the highlights of any trip to Burgundy. The wines are wonderful of course with each vineyard portrayed with clarity and distinction via each wine, their different qualities coming through and enabling you to discover the whole village without leaving the cellar. But the human interaction is also invaluable, with Guillaume eager to discuss the wines and for views on them to be shared. His search for ever greater precision continues and he has clearly inspired his team to achieve new levels of excellence. These wines have, simply, never been better.
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White price per case in bond
Meursault 1er Cru Santenots £475.00
Notes of ripe citrus fruits combine with delicate peach and apricot aromas; a pleasing and enticing introduction. On the palate, the wine offers a more savoury, mineral experience with a salty seasoning and a little gunflint adding intrigue and complexity. The finish is fresh and lively, with plenty of acidity to lift and sustain. Drink from 2013.
Red price per case in bond
Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles £425.00 Sold Out
The newcomer to the line-up is certainly finding its feet quickly. For textbook Volnay 'femininity', this is the wine to turn to with its lacy structure, fine tannins and caressing textures. At this stage, this is all about the purity of the red fruits and as such it should give a lot of pleasure in its early years, as well as having plenty in store for the future. Drink from 2013.
Volnay 1er Cru Frémiets £450.00
Barely 100 metres apart from Clos des Angles but a totally different wine. Salty, spicy and sculpted, this has a long, reverberating finish and great fluidity in the mouth with an excellent depth of fruit. But it is the minerality that marks it the most and shows particularly strongly in this vintage. Drink from 2014.
Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets £530.00
Guillaume's vines are in the highest part of the Caillerets vineyard and while there is certainly heightened ripeness, as seen by the sucrosité on the attack, this is tempered by the freshness of the wine. On the palate, the wine is easy going and transfers seamlessly to a more structured, serious finish where the minerality takes over. Drink from 2014
Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 6 bottles £265.00
3 magnums £275.00
Taillepieds can be severe and aloof and while this wine certainly has grandeur and old fashioned masculinity, it also manages to show dexterity and precision. Very much a wine of the soils rather than the fruits, notes of gunflint and crushed rock dominate the palate with gentle spiciness providing a counterpoint. Serious and noble with a long future ahead. Drink from 2016.
Volnay 1er Cru Champans £530.00 Sold Out
6 magnums £550.00
1 jeroboam £250.00
Taillepieds can be severe and aloof and while this wine certainly has grandeur and old fashioned masculinity, it also manages to show dexterity and precision. Very much a wine of the soils rather than the fruits, notes of gunflint and crushed rock dominate the palate with gentle spiciness providing a counterpoint. Serious and noble with a long future ahead. Drink from 2016.
Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 6 bottles £395.00
3 magnums £405.00
1 jeroboam £325.00
There may not be very much of it this year but what is there is quite remarkable. Clos des Ducs remains the wine by which all others are judged in Volnay. Grand and stately, this is a complete wine with extra energy, fine detailing and great complexity. Sweet cinnamon, delicate black pepper and floral perfumes sit above the red fruits but all carried through on a seam of minerality. The pace is measured, never hurried, inviting the taster to work the wine and discover extra nuances in its multiple layers. Endlessly fascinating, a masterpiece in the making. Drink from 2017.