2005 Bordeaux En Primeur Vintage Report

Considered by many to have been the ‘perfect’ growing season, 2005 enjoyed very low rainfall, a lot of sunshine, temperatures that were never excessive and cool nights. Who could ask for anything more?

The cooler than normal temperatures of winter kept disease away and the dry growing season kept rot at bay.

From October 2004 onwards there was very little rainfall. Thankfully the fear of drought and the potential ramifications on the vine were avoided by a few strategically placed showers in April, May and September. One of the effects of the drought is the reduced volume of production, though not quite as extreme as 2003. However, this is more than compensated by the quality of the wines as drought forces roots deeper in search of moisture and nutrients. The April showers and the increase in temperature helped encourage budding and the September showers served to freshen up the grapes just before harvest.

The summer days were hot and dry, the evenings cool and breezy. September brought with it the same warm days and cool nights which helped maintain the acidity levels in the grapes. The heat of the summer resulted in excellent ripeness – by the time harvest started sugar and acidity levels were high, as were bordelais spirits.

The results of this perfect growing season speak for themselves. We were truly taken aback by the wonderful ripeness and concentration in the wines, coupled with a lively freshness and balance. The harmony of the wines at such an early stage made for a much easier week of tastings than in previous years. No lack of structure helped by the presence of ripe but noteworthy tannins suggest great ageing potential in the wines, just one of the many features of the 2005’s that recalls the great years of the past.

We found it difficult to pin point one particular commune that stood out from the crowd this year. The consistency of quality and sense of classic style and terroir is not confined to the exhalted heights of the top echelon of Châteaux this year and is widespread throughout the communes. Worth noting that the number of Châteaux producing excellent wines this year has increased significantly and we are confident there will be a smattering of moderately priced wines on offer for the drinker to enjoy.

When asked, as we have been, whether 2005 is comparable to say, 2000, 1990 or 1982, we can honestly comment that in many ways it is superior. Enhancements in technology, better understanding of vineyard husbandry and a focus on quality above all suggests to us that Bordeaux has never produced a better vintage.

The level of quality across the Médoc is exemplary in 2005 and considered by many to be the best vintage in at least the last 15 years.

Once again the great Châteaux have made very great wines - the first growths were spellbinding as you would expect. Paul Pontallier said of Margaux 2005 “..it is truly exceptional. I have never before smelled that depth of flavour nor seen such density combined with freshness.”

In St Estephe, Cos d’Estournel and Montrose were monumental. By all accounts Calon Ségur has also excelled but do not miss Lafon Rochet, Phelan Ségur or Les Ormes de Pez.

Down the road in Pauillac, Lynch Bages reminded us all of the 1990, while a tasting at Pontet Canet blew us away. We found it very easy to understand why Alfred Tesseron believes the 2005 to be the best he has ever made. Grand Puy Lacoste was undoubtedly the best we have tasted and we were hugely impressed by the quality of Pibran, Haut Batailley and Haut Bages Liberal.

In St Julien, Ducru Beaucaillou wowed the crowds this year and the lovely Ducru ladies once again beguiled the boys in the armit team! A very humourous Anthony Barton presented the stalwart that is Leoville Barton, a very firm favourite of the armit team. Leoville Las Cases continues to fly the flag for the commune but the bargain hunter would be wise to seek out Talbot, Langoa Barton and Gruaud Larose.

Not to be outdone, the Margaux commune offers Palmer, Malescot St Exupery and Giscours which are up there with the very best.

All of these classic communes were clearly identifiable through their wines. Terroir speaks louder than winemaking, typicity reigns over fashion.

As if you hadn’t enough to look at already, the second wines of the great Châteaux have triumphed. Particular highlights were Carruades de Lafite, Pagodes de Cos, Pavillon Rouge du Ch Margaux and Clos du Marquis.

After a relatively difficult run of vintages the Right Bank has really come up trumps in 2005. The Merlot grape enjoyed almost perfect weather conditions – it ripened well and light showers at the beginning of September helped maintain the freshness.
The Pomerol commune this year boasts wines verging on the sublime – the elegance of Vieux Château Certan almost silenced us, while Lafleur is contender for wine of the vintage. Not forgetting of course the second wine, Pensées de Lafleur which is exceptional and a fraction of the price. The Pomerol UGC tasting provided a number of delightful surprises, not least the enticing Conseillante, nor the punchy La Pointe.

Siaurac of Lalande Pomerol is only one of the many wines in the Moueix stable that will offer fabulous value for money and pleasurable drinking over the coming years. Christian Moueix believes the merlot benefited from his decision to harvest early, retaining the freshness and avoiding over-ripeness.

In neighbouring St Emilion many growers have reigned in on the extraction front and have produced wines in more classic and approachable St Emilion style. There are still a few who are guilty of forcing the wines and we have chosen not to include them in our final selection. Angélus stunned us, as did the wines of Stéphane Derenencourt, in particular Pavie Macquin. Once again, Alain Vauthier has surpassed himself with an effortlessly stylish line-up from Moulin St Georges to the grand vin, Ausone.

Aside from the majestic Haut-Brion, our favourites here were Domaine de Chevalier, Haut Bailly and the second wines of Haut-Brion and its equally impressive sister La Mission Haut-Brion.

In white, Domaine de Chevalier once more won the day and if you can find any, Laville Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion blanc offer a taste of perfection.

It is unusual to find a vintage that is every bit as good for sweet wines as it is for dry, but 2005 is that year. If you have not purchased since 2001, this is the time to do it whether your budget is at Yquem level or De Malle.

The 2005 vintage provides all the arguments to purchase your wines en primeur – incredible quality of the wines, reduced volumes of production and very great demand.

Endorsement of the vintage by critics such as James Suckling of the Wine Spectator and Jancis Robinson has further fuelled excitement. A strong backing from Parker will surely take this to fever pitch.

It is fully expected the release prices will reach record levels for a number of reasons and this will be most felt at the top levels. A record year in the city, US buyers travelling to Bordeaux with suitcases laden down with dollar bills and plans to buy big, Château owners salivating after a quiet campaign in 2004 and shareholders to be paid.

However at lower levels, we expect more stability on pricing and it is here where the benefits of a great vintage will be most easily exploited. It would be a real mistake to ignore these wines, especially if the top ten are priced in the stratosphere.

We have seen a trickling of releases that so far reinforce the price increase rumour – please see recent offer.

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