Bordeaux 2006 En Primeur

After the benign and near perfect conditions of 2005, vintage 2006 presented the growers of Bordeaux with far greater challenges. A fiercely hot July was tempered by a cool and variable August before moving back to hot, dry conditions in the first two weeks of September. From then on the weather was more variable. Patchy, but significant, rainfall occurred over the rest of the month. Some producers – especially in Pomerol – were able to bring in their entire crop (of excellent Merlot) before the rains came, whilst others – mainly left bank - were able to wait into October to harvest the Cabernets. In a number of properties very good quality Cabernet Sauvignon was harvested.

Despite this backdrop the vintage is clearly better than may have first been thought. The modern era has seen great advances in vineyard management and winemaking across the region, ironing out many of the real difficulties and deficiencies encountered in years gone by. Many were keen to stress their care in making selections with some even laying claim to picking berry by berry. Such attention to detail and expense of operating is becoming more and more typical. Sensitive to conditions, many châteaux have successfully amplified both quality and typicity through such severe selections and declassifications – many over 50% of the total crop. As a result volumes of the top wines and Grands Vins offerings will be well down on 2005.

It is not a vintage, therefore, where one can broadly make sweeping statements regarding the victory of right-bank over left-bank and vice versa or indeed the absolute superiority of the classification system. Excellence and mediocrity can be found in every appellation and virtually at all levels. In light of the variability of 2006, we believe it essential for drinkers and investors to consult carefully with the armit team, who tasted through many hundreds of wines, including all of the top growths, and visited many of the estates and producers themselves. We have been strict in our selection, looking only to offer those wines that deliver over and above the level of their peers.

In general it is difficult to relate 2006 easily to any other recent vintage – Jean Guillaume Prats of Cos d’Estournel ventured 1988 with touches of 1986 where Paul Pontallier put Ch. Margaux in the same register as 1996. On the right bank, many, such as Jacques Guinaudeau at Lafleur, made a connection to 2001. For those with a longer memory, John Armit finds much similarity with the 1964s. What is certain is that in comparison to 2005, the wines are more tannic, but less fruity and intense. They also possess a kernel of firm acidity, which if unmatched by fruit concentration can make the wines austere and rather charmless – unfortunately they were many wines with this characteristic and these were easy to eliminate.

The most successful producers were those that put in the hard yards but also those with a real understanding of what this vintage is about. Those that were able to harness the classicism and elegance of it and transmit that through their terroir have done really rather well. The greatest examples, such as Lafite, Lafleur & Pétrus absolutely scream of their appellation.

Those properties that chose an identikit approach to winemaking, trying to make the same wine year after year, have failed miserably, especially if that style is big, brash and highly extracted. In a vintage like 2005, with its abundant natural richness, such an approach can work but in 2006, where a more sensitive mindset and delicate hand was needed, some results are near catastrophic.

In summary, we found that Pomerol was the best and most consistent of the right bank communes, with Lafleur, Pétrus, Gazin and La Fleur Pétrus amongst the standouts and St. Julien was worthy of the victor ludorum on the left bank. Both St. Estèphe and Margaux were much more variable and, with a few very notable exceptions, it is difficult to recommend many wines from these appellations. Pauillac was also variable but, as you might expect, some superb wines were still made. Outside of the first-growths, we were hugely impressed once again by that consistently over-performing trio of Lynch-Bages, Grand-Puy-Lacoste and Pontet-Canet. Haut Batailley could also be one of the best value wines of the vintage.

We also found some great successes in the Graves. The wines of Haut Brion were on terrific form with La Chapelle de la Mission clearly having benefited from absorbing vines that were previously destined for the now discontinued La Tour Haut Brion. La Mission Haut-Brion is really exceptional this year and exemplary performances also came from Haut Bailly and Domaine de Chevalier.

In St. Emilion, there are signs of trouble. In a year where it was certainly possible to make a really good showing, we were disappointed. Many seem to be overcome both by the demands of the harvest but also by an addiction to heavy handed winemaking which only seemed to accentuate the tannic, acidic and austere side of the vintage, rather than tame it. The greatest successes came from the Moueix stable- look out for Magdelaine and Bélair- and from the top growths such as Cheval Blanc, Ausone and Angélus. An honourable mention at less exalted levels should also go to Ch. L’Arrosée which we felt was a real shining star in an otherwise murky sky.

This was a vintage to separate the wheat from the chaff. Truly fine terroir has generally won through but only when coupled with skill, intelligence and sensitivity in winemaking.

One significant highlight is the extremely strong showing of dry white Bordeaux. Many of these were quite magnificent, having harvested fully before the rains and with precise acid and mineral qualities highlighted by the cool August. Some amazingly ripe and concentrated wines were made – Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux recorded abv levels of 15.2%!! We also adored Domaine de Chevalier Blanc and the whites of the Haut Brion stable and were thrilled and much surprised by a lovely Caillou Blanc de Talbot and Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc.

For those with a sweeter tooth, Sauternes & Barsac had a much more difficult harvest, with low levels of botrytis and (relatively) low levels of sugar. However, the firm acid levels really lifted the citric fruit nature of some and there a few wines of pedigree and typicity which will make for good drinking in the medium term. We particularly rated Suduiraut and Doisy-Védrines.

The question hanging most heavily on everybody’s lips concerns price. Despite the ongoing health of the major global economies and the insatiable demand for the very best of everything, be it houses, art or fine wine there are strong reasons for prices to come down from the record levels of 2005. It should be noted that blankets calls for reductions of 50% for example are unhelpful as some growers, such as Anthony Barton and J-P Moueix, were modest with their increases last year where others were more opportunist. However, with quality clearly not at the same exalted levels as last year, there is no argument, in our eyes, against dropping prices. We feel that prices should be far closer to those of 2004 than 2005.

Should that happen, then this will be a vintage that we can strongly endorse, when selected carefully. Like never before, the fate of this embryonic new vintage is in the hands of its creators.

Releases should start in earnest towards the end of April, when the sage of Maryland, Robert Parker, is expected to release his eagerly awaited notes and scores. As each château takes its turn centre-stage, we will aim to circulate an offer by email. If you would like to receive this, please make sure we have your email address

Alternatively, if you simply cannot wait until then, please visit www.armit.co.uk and go to the 2006 Bordeaux section where you will find a full wish list. Log your favourite wines and must-haves with us and we will contact you as soon as the wine is released. You will also find a full, detailed vintage report, the latest news and a list of all wines with tasting notes.

Buying en-primeur is your chance to buy unfinished wine as it lies in barrel in the cellars of the producer. This is the first time that the product is put to market and offers the best chance of acquiring precisely what you want and at the best price. It is also an opportunity to specify whether you would the wine bottled in a different format, such as magnums or double magnums (for a small charge).

The price is quoted “in bond” which means delivered into a UK bonded cellar but does not include duty or VAT, which will need to be paid either when the wine arrives into the UK (likely to be in 2009) or when you withdraw the wine from bond at a later date. Wines can only be purchased as full cases.

For further information, advice and recommendations, please call any of the sales team on 020 7908 0660.

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