armit - The Wines of Bruno Giacosa, Piedmont

Robert Parker on Bruno Giacosa ‘I can think of no Italian producer whose wines have given me as much pleasure as the Barbarescos and Barolos from Bruno Giacosa. He is one of a handful of producers whose wines I will purchase without tasting them first...’
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate Issue 144.

In Bruno’s words, ‘I must say that in the last half century there have been many changes in the world of wine, and I can assure you I’ve seen a lot of estates go sky high and then disappear into oblivion. I’m pleased that I always managed to keep calm, faithfully pursuing my sole objective of quality.’

Established in 1871, Bruno Giacosa is the third generation of his family to produce wine in this Neive estate and has worked in these family cellars since he was a very young man during World War II. Today, he is ably assisted by his daughter Bruna who markets the wines throughout the world. The Giacosa family philosophy is a simple one, based on the respect of local tradition in the vineyard and the cellar, and a driving passion that has been handed down from generation to generation.

Giacosa’s vines are all located in prime sites and total just over 20ha. They include 5.5ha of Barbaresco Asili and 14.5ha of Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba – two vineyards with optimum exposure and perfect soil for producing great Barbaresco and Barolo. All the fruit for the Giacosa wines come from vines at about 400 metres above sea level, south/southwest facing in an amphitheatre-like location which produces a very protective, low-cropping microclimate.

‘Mention Giacosa’s name to the area’s other wine producers and they offer nothing but admiration, referring to him as the ‘master’ or a ‘great man.’’
Wine Spectator, November 30th 2003.

‘In my experience, no one’s Nebbiolos have been more consistently wonderful over such a long period than those of this morose, introspective genius of Neive….’ - Nick Belfrage, Barolo to Valpolicella-The Wines of Northern Italy.

The over-riding ambition of both father and daughter is to achieve the highest quality possible. To this end, they only ever put the Giacosa name to wines in which they have complete confidence. Bruno's strictness in this regard comes at a heavy financial cost - in 1991, 1992 and 1994 he declassified all his single-vineyard Barolos and Barbarescos, and repeated this in 2002.

With the brilliant assistance of Dante Scaglione, Bruno runs an impeccable cellar. While primary importance is, of course, attached to the quality of the fruit, Bruno regards an immaculate, well ordered winery and cellar as essential to the production of great wine. Dante shares not only the responsibility of the winemaking with Bruno Giacosa, but also the aim of creating wines rich in flavour, with fine supporting tannins.

Bruno combines a strict adherence to traditional methods with a few concessions to modern technology. Skin contact during alcoholic fermentation of the red wines, in stainless steel tanks, can last for anything up to 30 days. The wines are then aged in huge 50-100 hectolitre botti for between 1 and 4 years, depending on the wine.

Bruno’s wines are made from five different grape varieties: Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Arneis and Pinot Noir, making Barolo, Barbaresco and Nebbiolo d’Alba, Barbera d’Alba, Dolcetto d’Alba, Roero Arneis and Spumante. Bruno has championed the re-introduction of the unusual white grape, Arneis, with much success and his Barolos and Barbarescos are among the finest wines in the world. They only ever put the Giacosa name to wines in which they have complete confidence and in the very best of vintages.

The following are the characteristics of each principal wine from the Bruno Giacosa stable:

A sparkling wine made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes grown in Oltrepò Pavese and produced in the traditional method, with secondary fermentation in the bottle. The wine is matured on its lees for 3 years before dégorgement, always carries a vintage, and is always extra brut (less than 5 g/litre of residual sugars). Produced only in good vintages, it is straw-yellow with a fine mousse and minute, lingering perlage. Hints of breadcrusts and biscuits on the nose lead into a lively, dry taste with a creamy finish.

Made entirely from Arneis grapes grown on the finest vineyards in the heart of the Roero, this represents a worthy example of a modern wine crafted from a native variety. Its bright straw-yellow colour, elegant fruit and flowers, and luscious, soft freshness make it an ideal companion for light everyday dishes.

‘The Giacosa Estate.... fervently supports the almost forgotten Arneis grape, whose name locally means ‘slightly crazy person’. Lemony yellow, with a lovely floral nose, this is a classy wine indeed – beautifully ripe fruit with a backbone of minerality’. Steven Spurrier, Country Life.

Dolcetto grapes grown on prime hillside sites in the villages of Neive and Treiso produce this purplish ruby-red wine. Easily-recognisable, nicely dry, ‘almost almondy’ vinous taste.

‘The Dolcetto vine has been cultivated for centuries on the steep slopes of the Langhe region of Piedmont and is favoured for early drinking (or can be kept), while the Barolos take their time. Purple-red, with plum and blackcurrant flavours, it is perfect with dishes with a rich sauce’. Steven Spurrier, Country Life.

A full-bodied wine made from Barbera grapes from very old vines in and around Neive. It shows strength and character, and is a good ready-to-drink wine, though great vintages will also keep for many years. Ruby-red with purplish highlights, its vinous nose has overtones hinting at plums and wild black cherries.

Made with Nebbiolo grapes from the sandy hills of the Roero, and matured for a year in large French oak casks prior to bottling. Ruby-red tending to garnet, with a light, delicate nose reminiscent of violets, it has a dry, full flavour showing the fine tannins for which this variety is renowned.

‘His humility, unassuming character, dignity, extraordinary pride, and remarkable integrity are reflected in his wines, which, for me, are the benchmarks for great Nebbiolo’. Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate 135.

From Nebbiolo grapes grown in one of the best areas of Serralunga d’Alba: the Falletto vineyard, owned in its entirety by Giacosa. The vineyards lie in an amphitheatre of land facing south and south-west. The wine ages in large French oak casks takes for 2-4 years. It is deep garnet-red with orange highlights, and has an intense nose of dried flowers, mint, cocoa, black truffles and spices. Warm and full-bodied, with excellent character and great ageing potential.

The finest of the Nebbiolo grapes grown on the oldest vineyards in the best positions (facing south) on the Falletto hillsides are used for what is essentially the estate’s ‘cru of crus’. This label, which appeared for the first time in 1997, was again released as a riserva with the 2000 vintage in 2006 and now will appear once more with the magnificent 2001 vintage in February 2007. The wine is aged in large French oak casks for 3-4 years. Deep garnet-red with orange highlights, truffly sensations are often identifiable on the nose, along with persimmon and spices. Full and warm, with plenty of character and a tremendous ability to age.

‘Bruno Giacosa is one of the Grand Old Men of Barolo and a recent tasting of his 1989, 1986 and 1982 vintages confirms his reputation for exceptionally elegant wines. The garnet red single vineyard 1998 combines the intense sweetness of fruit of these earlier vintages with a ripeness of tannin that makes it approachable now, but much better in 5-10 years’. Steven Spurrier, Decanter, February 2003.

There are two sources of grapes for Giacosa’s regular Barbaresco - vines around the village of Neive produce grapes which Giacosa buys from a core group of buyers, while others come from Giacosa’s own Falletto vineyard within the village limits of Barbaresco. A wonderful intensely perfumed wine, with fine and complex characteristics. The soft structuring tannins are from the ageing that the wine receives for twenty four to thirty six months in large oak barrels. Bottle age is for a minimum of six months.

This Barbaresco is made from carefully-selected Nebbiolo grapes grown on one of the village’s finest crus in terms of position and soil. It matures for 1-3 years in large French oak casks, and then in the bottle for 1-2 years before being released. ‘Riservas’ were produced in 1990, 1996 and 2000. Its garnet-red colour with orange highlights introduces a fine, elegant bouquet with hints of violets, liquorice and red berries. Warm and mouth-filling, with a very long, lingering finish.

Made from Nebbiolo grapes grown on one of the most important and historic vineyards in Neive, the Santo Stefano has often rewarded connoisseurs with unforgettable wines. Matured for 2 to 3 years in large French oak casks, it has a fine garnet colour, with a depth that varies depending on the vintage. With its intense bouquet packed with nuances of violets and liquorice typical of Nebbiolo, this is a full-bodied wine, blessed with a wealth of noble tannins making it perfect for long cellaring.

This other important Barbaresco ‘cru’ abuts Asili, but is substantially different, on account of the composition of the soil. Ageing in large French oak casks for 1-3 years produces a deep garnet-red wine with orange highlights. Liquorice, herbs and dried flowers can often be identified on the bouquet, while slightly hard tannins can be detected on its full flavour when it is young. A rare Rabaja Riserva was made in the 2001 vintage.

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