The Vintage
Perfection is an emotive word; indeed according to your point of view is perhaps something that definitively cannot be achieved. However, if you were to ask a grower to name the dream scenario for the production of healthy, ripe and concentrated fruit, it is likely that the answer would mirror the actual conditions of 2005.
After a relatively abundant crop in 2004, hard pruning was needed. Those that were brave enough are convinced that this gave them a crucial advantage for the growing season that was to follow.
Come the spring, things did not get off to the perfect start. Uneven flowering resulted in millerandage across the region, but as the weeks went by it was clear that having these tiny berries interspersed among the more developed fruit was actually a huge benefit - air was able to circulate freely amongst the bunches keeping the fruit in top condition as well as contributing extra concentration.
The summer of 2005 was hot and dry but at no time did temperatures reach anything approaching the extremes of 2003. The abundant sunlight provided perfect conditions for photosynthesis and the lack of rainfall caused the vines to search out water sources (and therefore mineral nutrients) deep underground, ensuring that grapes were small and concentrated with thicker than average skins. When allowed to ripen fully, as was the case, the result is extra aromatic depth and complexity and a tannic structure for real ageing potential.
In the lead up to the harvest, conscientious growers tasted and assessed their grapes every day in order to assure that they would pick at the optimum moment. Many reported that they had never seen a crop of such perfectly formed, healthy fruit. Those who waited too long to pick ran the risk of losing acidity, and therefore freshness, and it is absolutely the case that in 2005 the best wines have a beautiful zip of acidity which is the perfect counterpoint to the ripe, intense fruit.
The only sour note climatically was the unwelcome hailstorm that hit parts of Santenay and Chassagne-Montrachet on 20th July. Such occurrences are part of the mix for fruit farmers everywhere and growers in these villages were perhaps given the hardest task, as eliminating damaged fruit and the unwelcome resulting “gout de grêle” was a crucial task to perform. Some succeeded brilliantly, others fared less well.
This apart, growers that we spoke to are convinced that it was a virtually stress-free vintage and smiles on faces have never been broader. Indeed, some even mischievously suggested that if you weren’t able to make great wine in 2005, that perhaps winemaking is not the job for you.
The Wines
So, as you may have devised from the above, quality is extremely high in 2005. Indeed, may we apologise at this early stage for the embarrassment of riches that follow. It is so exciting as buyers to taste wine after wine that give such great pleasure. As you read through, you will find abundant use of superlatives and exultation. This is no accident: 2005 is the real deal.
One of the true signs of a great vintage is the strong performance of the petits appellations. From Aligoté and Passetoutgrain, through to generic Bourgogne and village level, we see wines with an uncommon ripeness and complexity. Burgundians generally discourage comparisons to Bordeaux, but just as the petits châteaux made a compelling purchase in 2005, so too the lesser lights of the Côte d’Or and beyond.
People often ask whether it is a red wine or a white wine vintage and whether certain appellations stand out over others. 2005 is strong in both colours, although if pushed to choose, reds have the edge by a whisker. In terms of appellations, there was excellent fruit across the region but only the greatest, most talented and most conscientious growers will turn this into legendary bottles. Burgundy is a region where you can happily buy every year but there are still a disheartening number of lazy growers. We take very seriously our responsibility to you to eliminate those who are not up to scratch.
2004 or 2005?
As is customary, our tastings enabled us to look again at 2004, a vintage that we have been strongly in favour of since first tasting. The latest assessment has only reaffirmed our feelings.. The stylistic comparison between the two will be fascinating to follow. In white, the 2005s have an extra ripeness and richness over the 2004s, but perhaps lack the tingling minerality of the earlier vintage. Both are blessed with beautiful freshness and balance and basically, you should buy both. In red, the extra concentration and intensity of the 2005s marks them out as the superior, but for some palates the extra finesse and delicacy of the 2004 will hold more appeal. Both vintages will age well, but we suspect that the 2005s will eventually be the longest lived.
The Market
Burgundians shake their heads in disbelief when they hear of the pricing policies of the Bordelais. Early indications are that prices will rise by anything up to 30%, although this will most likely be confined to a small number of top premier and grand crus and will still be far below the 100+% increases seen in Bordeaux. This is totally justified. Quantities are down from 2004, so it is only fair to allow producers to make up for the smaller crop with modest increases in price. Additionally, Burgundy has really not seen any significant increases in prices for at least 5 years.
For the consumer the benefit of such a long-term view is clear- relationships can be built, loyalties earned and won and nobody should feel that they are being “priced out”. The very greatest wines are not cheap but then neither should they be. The genuinely tiny quantities produced dictate that we are talking about a highly desirable but inherently rare product. For those who ask themselves “why buy en primeur” the simple answer is that in many cases, you simply will not be able to find the wines again in the future. Just ask yourselves how many 1990s or 1999s you are able to choose from freely on the market today?
With a strong economy, a global appreciation for Burgundy that is ever on the increase, sensible pricing, outstanding quality, wines that will give pleasure in their youth and their dotage, all the ingredients are there for this to be a much sought-after vintage. At armit, we are hugely privileged to work with some of the greatest producers of the region and we like nothing more than knowing that these wonderful bottles will be enjoyed by our customers and their friends. Whether 2005 is the perfect vintage can be argued over in the years ahead, but while the debate goes on, we cannot recommend strongly enough that you should buy as many of these wines, across the board, as you can afford..
Allocation
Sadly, there will never be enough wine to go round and therefore we anticipate that many of these wines will have to be sold by allocation. We will attempt to do this as fairly as possible and will always give preference to a) those buying wines across the board in 2005 b) those who bought from us in 2004.
