armit - Bordeaux 2009 En Primeur

The earliest predictions of a great vintage were based on reports from Bordeaux of a near perfect growing season. The vintage report from the Faculty of Oenology at the University of Bordeaux indicated all the conditions for a great vintage with no extremes of temperature; the first time since 2005.

Apart from localised hailstorms in May that damaged vineyards in parts of Margaux and St Emilion, the weather was generally benign. A cold and dry winter resulted in a late bud-burst at the end of March followed by a warm May and June which led to an even flowering. June and July saw plenty of sunshine, without the “scorching” temperatures of 2003. Rainfall was at best intermittent with hardly any rain in the Médoc which concentrated the grapes perfectly.

There were a few welcome showers early in September but certainly not enough to affect the harvest of the white grapes, which passed without any problem. Clear skies resumed after 21^st September with temperatures starting to rise once more, averaging 24.80 degrees in the first 10 days of October. Nevertheless, night-time temperatures remained relatively cool, favouring the development of grapes that were rich in phenols with some of the highest IPT levels ever recorded, meaning extraordinary levels of concentration.

Most of the Merlot was picked at the end of September (Latour started 23 Sept), and the Cabernets before mid October (Latour started 5^th October). With such fabulous weather conditions, winemakers had free rein to choose when to commence but they still had to get that decision spot-on: picking quickly at the right moment was absolutely critical to avoid over-ripe grapes. This was potentially a particular problem for Merlot on the Right Bank but one easily avoided with the correct judgment. Given the health and ripeness of the fruit, those that picked too late scored an “own goal” in the words of British critic Neal Martin, while those who over-extracted or conducted fermentations at too high temperature merely added to their goal tally.

Our overall impression is that the majority of châteaux have produced very good wines in 2009 and in some cases exceptional ones, most consistently in Pauillac, St-Estèphe and St-Julien. The Right Bank is more variable but those who avoided excessive alcohol and extraction made excellent wines; certainly some of the finest produced in the last few decades.

On the Left Bank, most of the wines we tasted at cru classé level are characterised by deep colours, intense flavours and an excellent tannic structure but they also, importantly, have freshness and excellent overall balance. This pattern also extends into the ranks of the cru bourgeois. They will cellar for many years, although a good number will be appealing even when young due to their concentrated, rich and ripe flavours.

All of the first growths were spectacular combining power with finesse and purity of fruit. Latour was particularly fine with great structure and elegance. Lafite showed incredible complexity and poise as usual. Mouton was powerful yet charming with very refined tannins, while Margaux showed incredible depth and finesse. No own goals here.

There are magnificent second growths too, especially Léoville Lascases, Léoville Barton, Pichon Baron and Ducru Beaucaillou. Our standout though was Montrose which had incredible power and has produced, in our view, its greatest wine ever. Palmer was also exceptional, and there were some amazing wines further down the scale including Calon Ségur, Pontet Canet, Grand Puy Lacoste and Lynch Bages, all wines which seem to consistently out-perform their classification. We noted strong performances in some more unexpected areas such as St. Pierre, Lagrange, Gloria and Cantemerle, all wines which will offer very rewarding drinking in the next few years without being excessively priced. We also noted some strong performers among the second wines also this year, including Croix de Beaucaillou, Dame de Montrose and Forts de Latour.
There were also some excellent wines at cru bourgeois and generic level, including Tronquoy Lalande, Potensac, Tour de By, Poujeaux and Caronne St Gemme. These showed real depth and finesse and should offer good value for money and provide ample evidence of the depth of success of the vintage.

The reds from the Graves were slightly less consistent but there are true stars in this appellation, particularly Domaine de Chevalier which is very classy indeed and perhaps more obviously Haut Brion, which along with La Mission Haut Brion, was quite exceptional and will be regarded as one of the finest vintages ever made, such is the power and harmony of the wine. The second wines were extremely fine too and without doubt this is the best Chapelle de la Mission that we have yet encountered.

The situation on the Right Bank was less homogenous with some wines displaying high levels of alcohol and extraction. Nevertheless, those châteaux that picked their Merlot grapes at the right moment produced wines with incredible finesse and power and a wonderful purity of fruit.
In Pomerol, Pétrus and Lafleur are profound, both showing wonderful depth and complexity and are certainly amongst the leading candidates for “wine of the vintage”. Lunch at Lafleur with the Guinadeau family is always a special experience and alongside the brilliant 2009, we tasted a number of wonderful, older vintages, demonstrating yet again just how exceptional this Château is. After visiting Lafleur, we tasted at Evangile and Vieux Château Certan which showed a delicate, almost Burgundian subtlety. We also tasted some excellent wines amongst the lower ‘ranks’- look out for Bourgneuf, Beauregard and La Pointe for example.
In St Emilion, there is greater tendency towards high alcohol and/or over-extraction but producers who got it right this year have made great wines which rival the best vintages of the last half century – and therefore, with significant improvements in wine making techniques over that time, arguably ever. Figeac, Pavie Macquin, Canon and Moulin St Georges stood out for their purity of fruit, complexity and elegance. At the top of the tree, Ausone and its second wine Chapelle d’Ausone, received some of our highest scores of the week while Cheval Blanc, with its tight, mineral structure, is very much back on track, along with second wine, Petit Cheval.

The dry whites are a little more varied but the best, such as Domaine de Chevalier, have persistent, ripe citrus flavours and great purity. Florence Cathiard at Smith Haut Lafitte sees the 2009 whites as a synthesis between 2005 and 2007 and her wine stood out at the Graves tasting. La Mission Haut Brion Blanc and Haut Brion Blanc were superb with intense, mouth-watering citrus flavours and the renamed second wine, La Clarté de Haut Brion is also to be recommended. Outside the Graves, Pavillon Blanc de Margaux, back to a more classic style and Lynch Bages Blanc were very noteworthy.

2009 is also a very good vintage for Sauternes. Although they have a bit less acidity than the 2007s the wines have a very elegant, pure character, combined with subtle yet exotic botrytis flavours which are very appealing. Wines which stood out were de Fargues, which had notes of honey and ripe apricots and Rieussec, which was unctuous yet delicate. Yquem was sumptuous, rich and complex with layers of flavours – divine.

Early indications are that 2009s will experience strong demand, especially at the top level.
In the UK, the weakness of Sterling will make the wines seem expensive in relation to previous vintages, especially to 2005 where the closest comparisons are being made. The overall economic situation is also less favourable than four years ago but it seems unlikely that demand will be diminished by these factors.
The biggest dynamics this year are the Far East, which is interested in purchasing en primeur for the first time and quite possibly (especially if Parker is on-side) the US, which is making noises about buying en primeur again, a habit often rekindled when a vintage is deemed ‘great’. An East-West battle for allocations of the top wines will only add greater pressure to prices, a fact not lost on the Bordelais.

Overall we anticipate that prices will be on the level of the 2005s, with a few no doubt pushing for a new record high. We expect wines to be released in several tranches with limited quantities being released at each time. One château owner, who will remain nameless, has suggested that Lafite will rise to 1,000€ a bottle by the end of the summer. We think this kind of speculation is irresponsible, designed to stoke up the market, but there is no doubt that buyers will need to make quick purchasing decisions to secure the top wines and to buy widely across the board in order to be at the front of the queue.
By most predictions, the releases of the 2009s will be frenetic but over a protracted time period. There will be a trickle of prices over the next few weeks, but most major châteaux will wait until the publication of Robert Parker’s scores in early May and the return from Vinexpo Hong Kong in early June.

Before things get too frenzied, it is worth reminding ourselves why anyone should buy En Primeur. First and foremost, there is the expectation of prices that will never be cheaper. Well, if the 2005 en primeur campaign is anything to go by, when the top wines were snapped up immediately and prices rose quickly from release, it will certainly be worth taking a position on the 2009 vintage. Secondly, buying En Primeur gives the possibility to secure stocks which might not be easy to find in the future, especially if you wish for large formats. Lastly, buying En Primeur from a reputable merchant gives you the security of knowing that your stock arrives in its purest form, direct from the château and with no detours. All of these conditions apply to the 2009s.

Although we live in a world increasingly fixated on celebrity and luxury brands, there is more to Bordeaux than just the top 20 wines. For most of the several thousand producers in the region, En Primeur is a total irrelevance. However, in a vintage like 2009, as with 2005, the chance to buy excellent quality at affordable prices is there due to the benevolence of Mother Nature. If the prospect of buying first growths for the same price as a good second hand car appalls you, then we strongly suggest that you concentrate on the many wines that have delivered the goods at a far more modest price. That is the great gift of a great vintage and the reason why all wine lovers should rejoice in vintages like 2009.

The first decade of the 21^st century has seen quite breathtaking performances from Bordeaux. 2009 is the perfect way to finish it off. In the final analysis, it is not as consistent as 2005 because of those ‘own goals’ but where producers have hit the bullseye, their wines stand comparison not only with 2005, but indeed with all of those great and fabled vintages of yesteryear.

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