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Bouchard Père et Fils
Philippe Prost and his team began to harvest on 27th August but realising that the weather was set fair, allowing for a long picking window, they stopped and restarted on 5 separate occasions, eventually finishing almost 3 weeks later.
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All wines are sold En Primeur and prices are quoted In Bond. White Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières 2007 £550 per 12 (IB) - SOLD OUT This is a captivating 1er Cru, with an intense nose of crushed rocks and minerals and a limey, bright fruit character. The palate is generous with more limes, almonds and lightly toasted white nuts. The oak treatment (just 15% new oak) is perfectly judged, contributing round textures but no hint of drying tannin or confected aroma. This is a complete example and one of Bouchard’s finest to date. Drink from 2011. - armit Not yet bottled. Honeyed and slightly nutty on the nose. Really creamy and quite soft on the palate but fresh enough to balance. Long lemony aftertaste. Drink 2011-14 – 16.5 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 23rd January 2009 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières 2007 £575 per 12 (IB) - SOLD OUT After the barnstorming Genevrières, the Perrières has some fierce competition but rather than meet it head on, it prefers to sail its own course in a more discreet manner, gradually building up in intensity without ever losing the elegance that characterises it. This is stylish and grand and in its own way, every bit as impressive. Drink from 2012. - armit Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2007 £995 per 12 (IB) - SOLD OUT Broad, vigorous and muscular it may be but there is also intensity, deftness and precision. Stonefruits combine with the saline notes of the soil and there is extra warmth and ripeness. The finish reverberates long and true. Drink from 2012. - armit Racy and well delineated though for the long term. Vibrant with green fruit flavours for the moment and only medium weight. Drink 2013-18 – 18 points, Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com, 23rd January 2009 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru 2007 £2,000 per 12 (IB) - add to basket This is a very special Chevalier. It may never have the muscle of the Charlemagne but for purity and finesse it is in a league of its own. This is teasing, tender and airy, elegant and fine and crafted by the most careful of masters. Drink from 2012. - armit Not yet bottled. Both complex and fragrant – citrus freshness with nutty and spiced sweetness starting to show. Dry, fine, restrained. More elegance than power. Gentle chalky minerality on the finish. Drink 2012-17 – 17 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 23rd January 2009
Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru 2007 £3,625 per 12 (IB) - SOLD OUT The extra warmth of La Cabotte shows in the white peach, almond and apricot notes on the nose. There is a creaminess and impressive breadth on the palate, with more exuberant and richness but without every being even remotely vulgar or shouty – it is far too classy for that. Drink from 2012. - armit Not yet bottled. Richer and more honeyed on the nose than the Chevalier. Very nutty. Full in the mouth, the rounded sweetness lent by the oak balanced by fresh citrus acidity. More delicate and mineral on the palate than the nose predicted. Lingers well though it is not a powerhouse. Drink 2012-2017 – 17.5 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 23rd January 2009 Le Montrachet Grand Cru 2007 £4,000 per 12 (IB) - SOLD OUT While the Chevalier and the Cabotte may be competing with each other, the Montrachet reigns supreme, grand and stately as ever and showing the perfect combination of perfumes, richness, acidity, concentration and natural balance. There is terrific potential here and it really does need to be forgotten about for at least 5 years. Drink from 2013. - armit Red Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus 2007 £720 per 12 (IB) - add to basket is large 4 hectare monopole is the flagship red at Bouchard and it is treated very much as a Grand cru. There is rich, ripe fruit here, with sucrosity but also an excellent balancing acidity. Already expressive, this truly shows how great the top vineyards of Beaune can be. Drink from 2012. - armit Very sweet fruit with a note of toffee. Expressive already. Remarkably soft and gentle on the palate with melted but present tannins. Scented from start to long, sublte finish. Drink 2012-19 - 17.5 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 23rd January 2009 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 2007 £785 per 12 (IB) - add to basket This has the most alluring, seductive nose, really drawing you in. On the palate, there is a buzz of activity, dense rich fruit and fresh acidity to keep things moving along. Plenty of power and grip too – this is serious and very impressive. Drink from 2011. - armit Fragrant with red fruit and subtle crushed herbs. Light and elegant and a good harmony. Drink 2010-14 – 16.5 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 23rd January 2009 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Malconsorts 2007 £875 per 12 (IB) - add to basket Black fruits abound once more, this time with definite cassis, liqueur fruit with a little cream. The textures are beautiful, sumptuous and silky. This continues to build in intensity and is almost hedonistic in its approach. The finish is long and flamboyant. Drink from 2011. - armit Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru 2007 £1,190 per 12 (IB) - add to basket This is always a classy wine in the Bouchard stable and so it is again, although this year there is greater energy and freshness and perhaps more noticeable tannic structure too. There is an engine purring under the bonnet here, waiting to be revved up but for the time being, it is just choosing its moment. Drink from 2013. - armit Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2007 £1,690 per 12 (IB) - add to basket This is a rather reserved showing, with the nose very underdeveloped at this stage. On the palate, the wine is far more expressive and with a mass of dark fruit and a brooding, mysterious layered palate that encourages you to search out every last detail. This is as serious as it gets and potentially a terrific example of this very great vineyard. Drink from 2014. - armit Fragrant and sweetly spiced but also with bright fresh (raspberry?) fruit aromas. Touch of vanilla sweetness. Darker and more plummy in the mouth. Very fine grained tannins, good depth of fruit but tightly furled at the moment. Long. Drink 2012-18 – 17+ points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 23rd January 2009 |
Such an approach is demanding both financially and physically but the extra maturity in the fruit, especially in the pips, has allowed Philippe greater flexibility in his options in the cellar and coupled with the new state of the art facilities that are now fully functioning, he has been able to carefully go about his work with no risk of underripeness showing at any stage. He also believes in the importance of lees contact but prefers to roll his barrels rather than open them to stir the lees, guarding against the threats of oxidation. Given the quantity of barrels at this impressive estate, that is quite some undertaking! ![]() The whites are yet again first class, with the high natural malic and tartaric acid levels demanding a long elevage and assiduous use of new oak – the Corton Charlemagne, the most ‘muscular’ cuvée, saw 25% new wood but all other cuvées were less. In red, Philippe was careful not to over extract, aiming for purity and silky tannins rather than dark blockbusters. Highlights in the range are a very smart pair of Vosne Romanée 1er Crus, whilst in white the two Meursault 1er Crus are really excellent and the Montrachet simply regal. |