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Domaine Taupenot Merme
“The cool days of summer were the secret to the purity of the fruit” explained Romain Taupenot, another who is enamoured by the tenderness of his Pinots and their clear ability to transmit terroir.
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All wines are sold En Primeur and prices are quoted In Bond. White St Romain Blanc 2007 Tender, juicy, bright, sappy and floral, this is already expressing itself easily and is a perfect example of why villages such as St Romain should be ignored no longer. Drink from release. - armit This too is quite earthy with ripe dark berry fruit aromas introducing somber, serious and low key flavors that possess good volume on the dusty and persistent finish. This isn’t elegant, in fact it’s overtly rustic but it’s frank and direct with enough depth to be interesting. - 85-87 points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue 33, January 2009 Dusty fragrant citrus. Very spring-like in its delicate freshness. Then creamy and riper on the palate - a light melon flavour. Fresh and attractive and undemanding though there's is an attractive touch of spice on the lingering finish. Drink 2009-10 – 16 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 30th January 2009 £160.00 per 12 (IB) – add to basket Red Gevrey Chambertin 2007 Very aromatic, almost bursting with bright cherry fruit, this is just so easy to enjoy. Little touches of black pepper show additional dimensions and the tannin on the finish, while far short of obtrusive, just pulls things in at the right moment. Excellent example. Drink from 2010. - armit A pretty red berry fruit nose carries a hint of crushed herb that conveys a slightly under ripe character that can be seen on the structural support elements of the flavors and while it’s subtle, this isn’t at the same level as the Morey and Chambolle villages wines, probably due to the hail damage. 2012+ - 85-87 points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue 33, January 2009 Dark fruit lightly spiced by the oak and still beautifully fragrant. Fruit is very good - juicy and scented - quite a firm grip but tannins are rounded and provide a good framework. Attractive aromatic finish. Drink 2011-16 – 17 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 30th January 2009 £260.00 per 12 (IB) – add to basket Chambolle Musigny 2007 Pure, crunchy and bright with perfumes of rose petal and an easy relaxed style, this is Chambolle at its elegant best. Lots of finesse here and style going spare. Drink from 2010. - armit A radically different nose features elegant, pure and high-toned red pinot fruit and limestone aromas that are in keeping with the extremely fresh, detailed, punchy and equally minerally flavors that possess lovely balance and solid persistence. This is an understated villages that is definitely worth a look. 2012+ - 87-89 points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue 33, January 2009 Ripe dark red fruit on the nose then really tangy fruit on the palate. Tight and fresh but with a fine tannin framework. Not as long as the Gevrey. Drink 2011-16 – 16.5 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 30th January 2009 £275.00 per 12 (IB) – add to basket Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Belair 2007 Spice, pepper and leather notes in a compact nose but with plenty of presence. The tannins are grippy but all totally ripe and a few years should see this flowing easily and impressing even more. Drink from 2011. - armit (a little known 1er that sits directly above Chambertin-Clos de Bèze made from vines planted in 1973). As befits this very cool site, the restrained red berry fruit nose is elegant, pure and airy while complementing the quite supple, round and almost delicate barely middle weight flavors that are balanced and focused if light, all wrapped in an admirably persistent finish. This too is an understated but very pretty effort. 2013+ - 88-91 points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue 33, January 2009 Dark cherry with a touch of white pepper. Bright and fresh on the palate, with a real lightness of touch that fits the vintage. On the lighter side but sustained on the finish. Drink 2010-14 – 16.5 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 30th January 2009 £405.00 per 12 (IB) – add to basket Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Combe d’Orveau 2007 From a tremendous plot of 62 year-old vines just below Musigny, this has fantastic depth and definition and seems even better than the outstanding 2006 which was the class of last year’s line up. Silky, velvety tannins from the old vines and the careful hand of Romain, this is a really top rank Chambolle. Drink from 2012. - armit (from 35+ year old vines). As one would expect, this is big step up in aromatic elegance with spicy red pinot fruit that displays the barest hint of herbal character that does not carry over to the refined and sophisticated flavors that are on the light side and while I like the understated style and persistence, this is less complex than what I’m used to seeing here as it is typically one of my favorite wines at this address. 2013+ - 88-90 points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue 33, January 2009 Fragrant red fruit, delicately sweet and bright. Fine grained and less expressive on the mid palate but finishes fragrant. Very fine fresh acidity. Just needs a little more time to open out in the middle. Drink 2010-15 – 17 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 30th January 2009 £450.00 per 12 (IB) – add to basket Corton Rognet Grand Cru 2007 A fine, promising cuvée that is already showing admirable finesse, this seems to have moved on a stage from last year, showing greater depth and sophistication. Drink from 2012. - armit A subtle touch of wood frames a truly lovely nose of spicy, cool and densely fruited and layered red pinot fruit that features notes of plum, menthol and warm earth tones that are also picked up by the rich, round and beautifully detailed if not especially concentrated middle weight flavors that culminate in a solidly long and delicious finish. 2015+ - 89-92 points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue 33, January 2009 Lifted strawberry fruit. Only in burgundy ... then a lovely fresh tingling sensation on the palate. Bright and pure with the oak a little marked on the finish at the moment but an underlying finesse and depth of flavour. Drink 2011-17 – 17.5 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 30th January 2009 £525.00 per 12 (IB) – add to basket Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2007 Charmes was hit by a little hail in July but with the damaged fruit easily removed, the remaining bunches have benefiting from nature’s green harvest and this shows in the concentration and vigour here. This is expressive, fine and well-structured with plenty of style and a lot of promise. Drink from 2013. - armit This is as, if not more, elegant than the Lambrays but with a different aromatic profile as here the nose runs more toward darker fruit and violet notes with refined, pure and beautifully detailed light to medium weight flavors that are slightly bigger and more powerful but actually finer, supported by fine tannins on the delicious, intense and solidly long finish. This is not especially concentrated but I like the texture and finishing intensity. In sum, this is a Charmes of finesse. 2015+ - 90-92 points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue 33, January 2009 Gentle red-fruited perfume on the nose then quite peppery on the palate. Lightly but finely structured. Long fresh finish. Drink 2011-17 – 18 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 30th January 2009 £655.00 per 12 (IB) – add to basket Mazoyères Chambertin Grand Cru 2007 The old vines of the Mazoyères give tiny little berries which are packed full of dark fruit, with a spicy, burly edge and finely grained tannins. This is confident, grand wine that really deserves far greater recognition. Drink from 2014. - armit Classic ruby. A pretty red and dark berry fruit nose cut with ample animale, underbrush, leather and jerky notes as well as notably more earth influence that continues onto the more obviously classic Gevrey character as there is a robust and muscular quality to the borderline rustic flavors that culminate in a powerful and punchy finish of much better than average length. A qualitative choice. 2015+ - 90-92 points, Allen Meadows' Burghound, Issue 33, January 2009 More marked by oak on the nose - a sweet toasty spice - but it doesn't cover the fresh fruit aromas. Charming and shyly inviting. Juicy in the middle, fresh and bright, with pretty good concentration for 2007 and lots of spice on the finish. Needs more time than the Charmes. Drink 2012-18 – 18 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, 30th January 2009 £660.00 per 12 (IB) – add to basket |
Despite incessant vineyard work, Romain admitted that his crop was reduced by 10% from 2006, mainly from some of the heavier soils in Morey. In the cellar, Romain has exercised a very gentle hand to maintain the maximum of purity and tenderness inherent to the vintage and he has succeded in crafting a very fine set that not only reward his endeavours but that will surely continue the growing acclaim that has been earnt here over recent vintages.
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