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Back to Chablis 2009 Home Page
Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin
Chablis 2009
The cool, immaculate cellar of Benoît Droin was a welcome sight on a scorching day in Chablis. As always, Benoît was on fine form and had been up with the lark. His 2009s have evolved well in the cellar and were all assembled so we tasted the final blends. Benoît explained that he he began harvesting on 12th September, very early by Chablisien historical averages. With the grapes ripening fast, he was keen to bring his fruit in and our tasting showed straight away that he had made the right call, preserving the identity of the sites and the freshness of the wines while harnessing the ripeness and generous fruit of the vintage. Finding it difficult to compare 2009 to one particular predecessor, he makes the comparison instead with a hypothetical blend of two great pairs of vintages - either 2005/2006 (which he made) or 1989/1990 (which he has tasted and sees the future paralell). Whichever it turns out to be, the 2009s are another excellent set of wines from this great Chablisien talent.
Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
£145 Buy
The warmth of the Vaillons gives rise to a richer style but Benoît has still preserved the essential freshness of good Chablis. Notes of chalk dust, smoke and flint on the nose suggest classic styling, on the palate there is good flesh, an easy flowing style and a promising finish. All in place, looking good and fantastic value. Drink 2012-2019 - armit
Citrus and stone aromas. In a fat, sweet, rather soft style but silky and easygoing, with nicely concentrated ripe citrus flavors and good volume. This has been harmonious from day one, noted Droin. - Stephen Tanzer, 86-89 points
Chablis 1er cru Mont de Milieu
£175 Buy
The first vineyard to be harvested, this is always a precocious wine and Benoît refers to it as his 'Condrieu'. One whiff and you can see why- notes of peach melba and fruit blossoms, this is very aromatic and warmly embracing but nonetheless it has zip and verve on the finish. With forward fruit like this drink it young as an apéritif. Drink 2012-2019 - armit
Pale, green-tinged color. Brisk aromas of crystallized citrus peel and mint. A step up in density, intensity and verve from the foregoing premier crus, with very good energy to the flavors of citrus fruits and spices. Not a particularly mineral style but crunchy and vivacious. This cru prefers a cooler growing season, notes Droin, but this 2009 is a success. - Stephen Tanzer, 88-90 points
Chablis 1er cru Montée de Tonnerre
£175 Buy
This is a particularly racy Montée de Tonnerre that Benoît evidently has a soft spot for. The notes of oyster shell, flint and smoke normally need 5-10 years to come out but the 2009 is already open for business. There is excellent energy here, a prickle of stem ginger on the palate and good mid-palate concentration and depth. Great example of this top site. Drink 2013-2023 - armit
Pale, green-tinged color. Precise, perfumed aromas of mint and crushed stone. Broad, rich and dry; tactile and rich but not at all heavy. Another dimension here to the flavors of crushed stone and lemon. This really saturates the mouth and finishes quite firm and piquant, with an impression of tannic grip and saline and lemony nuances. This aged in 20% barriques - Stephen Tanzer, 89-91 points
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir
£285 Buy
As always, this is a more nervy wine, with a noticeable prickle on the palate. Notes of toast and grilled nuts with floral perfumes over the top. On the palate, this is fresh and airy, an elegant wine which is less above volume and more about style and grace. Drink 2013-2023 - armit
(from a combination of 35- and 15-year-old vines; 35% done in f u ts Orange peel, hazelnut and grilled almond on the nose; showing a much suaver oak element than the Valmur. Silky, lush and fine-grained; quite full and powerful in the mouth. This is almost Meursault in style. Finishes long and thick for Chablis, reflecting the warmth of the year. "But the 2006 is an even hotter version of this wine," notes Droin. - Stephen Tanzer, 89-92 points
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
£295 Buy
Compact, dense and muscular, this is very typical Valmur with dissolved minerality and great natural confidence. This will demand time but clearly has the makings of greatness already. Very impressive. Drink 2015-2025 - armit
(40% oak) Green-tinged yellow. Sexy lime blossom, mirabelle and honey aromas are carrying a full load of spicy oak. Fat, lush and sweet, in an almost exotic style. This very ripe grand cru shows a whiff of banana and could use a bit more grip and verve. A big, ripe, oily mouthful with a finish that's currently a bit dried by the oak component. This is entirely from vines replanted in 2000, according to Droin. - Stephen Tanzer, 87-90 points
Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles
£325 Buy
Old vines here dating back to 1947 give a broad, vinous style which Benoît finds the most akin to the Côte d'Or of his wines. He has worked hard to tighten this up, reducing the wood treatment and picking earlier and his efforts show with a burst of acidity counterbalancing the riper, broader and creamier elements. This is very appealing already but it is also a Grenouilles with the legs for the longer term. Drink 2013-2025 - armit
(50% in barriques until the April assemblage Pale, green-tinged yellow. Bright aromas of lime blossom, spearmint and anise; cooler than the Vaudesir. Juicy and quite spicy in the mouth, with an exotic banana note and plenty of wood showing. Finishes full and strong, even a bit aggressive. If the Vaudesir is like a Meursault, this is more Chassagne-Montrachet. - Stephen Tanzer, 88-91 points
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
£330 Buy
Les Clos customarily gives a masterclass and this is no exception. Notes of lemon and green banana make a nod for fruit lovers, while notes of oyster shell, grilled nuts and perfume while satisfy those who savour the aromatics. On the palate, this is clearly a serious, grand and complete wine with a salty tang, exemplary drive and the perfect combination of power and precision. Drink 2015-2025+ - armit
Bright pale yellow with a green tinge. Complex aromas of citrus fruits, crushed stone, silex, licorice and mint. Dense and rich but reticent; mouthfilling but with a lighter touch than the preceding grand crus. Less large and more long in shape. Really vibrates on the saline, smooth finish, where the smoky, flinty character is more than strong enough to stand up to the 50% oak element. From a blend of 50- and 30-year-old vines, plus a bit of younger vines that Droin says brings added freshness to the wine. - Stephen Tanzer, 90-92 points
Terms and Conditions
Prices - All prices are quoted In Bond (excluding Duty & VAT) and are per case of 12 bottles unless otherwise stated.
Delivery - Wines will be shipped in early 2011. On arrival, we can either: :