Volnay

 

Exploring Volnay

Volnay is the best known red wine village of the Côte de Beaune but its wines suffer from gross over-generalisation: just ask yourself how many times you have heard Volnay described as “soft, feminine and full of charm”? That there are Volnays that fit this description is not in dispute but equally the village is capable of producing sturdier, meatier and more serious wines and everything in between.

all prices are duty & VAT inclusive

As in all of the best villages in Burgundy, it is from the varying make-ups of soil and exposition that the principal differences occur. Vine-age, viticultural and winemaking techniques also play critical roles but fundamentally, it is the type of soil and its mix in the vineyard and the exposure of the vines to the elements that will give birth to the wine’s truest character.

Generally speaking, the Volnay soils are lighter than in neighbouring Pommard and it is this, no doubt, that encourages the “feminine” description. However, as you move around the village and even within the same vineyard, subtle changes are clearly visible. Vineyards higher up the slope tend to have thinner top-soils meaning that wines will tend more towards minerality and away from fleshiness; on the Meursault side, soils are noticeably redder and with more stones, giving wines with a less obvious acid profile, more weight and richness; in Les Mitans and Brouillards (on the Pommard side) there is more clay, again promoting a bigger style and so on.

Exploring the vineyards on foot, you can feel the differences as the soil sticks to your feet or cracks beneath or as the wind catches you in some parts of the slope but not in others; you can smell the iron-rich soils or the dryness of the white, chalky, dusty soils higher up; you can see the differences in colour gradation, gradient and the varying amount of tones.
You can also see where gullies and waterflows bring soil, stones and nutrients down andacross the slopes.

In short, the Volnay vineyard is a patchwork quilt or jigsaw puzzle but it is only when tasting that the full picture is revealed: here, the final component, man, is added.

Volnay is lucky to have a plethora of fine and famous names. Pioneers such as the d’Angervilles, living legends such as Michel Lafarge, supreme talents such as Didier Darviot and Richard Fontaine and famous names such as Bouchard Père et Fils and Domaine Leroy.

These vignerons carry on the fame, fate and fortune of the village, bringing to today’s audience their different interpretations of what the village and its wines are about and making for fascinating comparisons. Volnay can be light, pretty, fruity and simple; it can be fragrant, sensual, layered and smooth; it can be austere, serious, profound and grand – in truth it offers immense scale and range and yet in today’s market it continues to be relatively inexpensive and an obvious place to head for outstanding value.

Volnay - Burgundy

Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans 1996

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville

£460.00 - please call us to order

 

Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans 2000

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville

£353.00 - add to basket

Champans is a mid-slope vineyard with deeper, darker soils and as a result, it produces perhaps the fattest and richest wine in the d’Angerville stable. The 2000 Champans is fleshy, rounded and open-knit. Generous, fruity and with no lack of depth, this is perfect for current drinking.

 

Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2000

Domaine Michel Lafarge

£512.00 - add to basket

A celebrated vineyard in the hands of one of Volnay’s legends. Caillerets is capable of producing one of the most complete wines of the village and this 2000 is absolutely on song, full of grace and charm but with a layered, subtle approach and awesome length.

 

Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots du Milieu 2000

Domaine Leroy

£533.50 per 3 bottles - please call us to order

Santenots is the odd man out, falling across the village boundary into Meursault but with all red wines produced there entitled to be called Volnay. It is a big vineyard and the Santenots-du-Milieu is acknowledged as being the best bit of it. Wines here are big, rich and powerful and Leroy is the standout producer.

 

Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet Clos de la Rougeotte 2002

Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

£348.00 - add to basket

A powerful wine produced on the Pommard border, this is full-bodied, muscular and dense and just starting to show its best after 5 years in bottle.

 

Volnay 1er Cru Santenots 2002

Domaine Darviot Perrin

£471.10 - please contact us to order

Didier & Julie Darviot have 50 year-old vines in Santenots which give lovely finesse and greater depth. This is the top red wine in their cellar.

 

Volnay 1er Cru Santenots 2003

Domaine Darviot Perrin

£407.00 - add to basket

 

Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 2004

Domaine Fontaine Gagnard

£254.00 - add to basket

Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 2004

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville

£430.00 - add to basket

£430.00 (magnums) - add to basket

The aristocrat of the village in so many ways, this is silky and polished but with dark cherry fruit and a serious, brooding presence. As ever, the wine by which all others are judged in Volnay and seemingly possessing an extra gear or two. Sensational stuff. Drink 2012-2020+ Magnums available.

 

Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans 2004

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville

£348.00 - add to basket

£348.00 (magnums) - add to basket

An expressive nose features bright extract of red pinot fruit aromas and a hint of forest floor that are followed by big, round and mouth coating medium full flavors that possess impressive freshness and beguiling finishing sweetness. This is a lovely combination of moderate power with obvious finesse plus a subtle touch of backend minerality. A very fine ‘04 that should benefit from medium-term cellaring 90 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound.com Magnums available

 

Volnay Les Blanches 2004

Domaine Darviot Perrin

£230.00 (magnums) - add to basket

A superb vineyard just above the great 1er cru of Clos des Chênes, Didier Darviot makes this in a forward and attractive style, with lovely pure, bright red fruits and terrific energy. Magnums available

 

Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds 2004

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville

£371.00 - add to basket

£371.00 (magnums) - add to basket

A famous vineyard in the centre of the village, this is expansive and inviting with gorgeous liqueur cherry notes and real intensity. A great wine in the making, just try and resist until 2010 if you can.

Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 2005

Domaine Fontaine Gagnard

£240.00 IB - add to basket

Serious Volnay from arguably the top non-monopole vineyard, this has considerable power and concentration. Freshly crushed berry fruit, with a hint of gaminess peeking through. And it’s an absolute bargain! Drink from 2010.

 

Volnay Les Blanches 2005

Domaine Darviot Perrin

£195.00 IB - add to basket

Supple, easy, crowd-pleasing style that will give great pleasure in its youth. Bright, crunchy red summer fruits, a touch of cream and a hint of violets. Very pretty and hard to resist. Drink from 2008.

 

Volnay 2005

Domaine Michel Lafarge

£200.00 IB - add to basket

An intense nose of black cherry fruit, just waiting to burst open but always holding itself back at the last moment. Frédéric compares this to the 1990 and says that it will easily last 10 years. From 2009.

  

Volnay Vendanges Selectionées 2005

Domaine Michel Lafarge

£245.00 IB - add to basket

Taken from the 4 best parcels in the centre of the village, just next door to the 1er crus, this is an outstanding example of a village Volnay. Cherry and blackberry fruit with a lick of cream adding richness. Lovely balance and very impressive. From 2010.