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Back to Chablis 2009 Home Page
Domaine William Fèvre
Chablis 2009
A relaxed Dider Seguier welcomed us at Fèvre HQ. Despite an early invasion of bud-eating bugs in April which ultimately affected total yields, there were few other incidents during 2009 to worry about and a fine, healthy crop was brought in at Fèvre from 14th September with the sorting table almost totally redundant. Didier refers to the vintage as a 'millésime du consomateur', meaning that its generous style will make it immediately appealing and give lots of pleasure in its youth. However, he is also at pains to point out that the wines have excellent freshness too, vital for their long-term potential, and acid levels are similar to those of the 2000s and 2002s here.
Wines of Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin
All wines sold in cases of 12 bottles. Magnums are sold in cases of six.
Chablis
£110 Buy
Easy, 'gourmand' style but with precision and freshness, this is a pure 'vin de plaisir' that will drink well from release. Drink now-2014 - armit
Green-tinged yellow. Aromatic nose combines white peach, lime and a hint of dusty stone. A step up in depth from the Chablis Champs Royaux, but a wine of modest intensity and nuance. Balanced for early drinking. - Stephen Tanzer, 87 points
Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
£215 Buy
Notes of dried apricot and fresh cut summer flowers on the nose. On the palate, this is engaging and very easy to get along with, an open style but with a good, dry and concentrated finish. Drink now-2016 - armit
Pale, green-tinged color. Less primary fruit and more spice on the nose, along with a hint of orange oil. Then fruitier in the mouth, with crunchy peach, orange and nutmeg flavors firmed by good mineral grip on the back. Finishes with sneaky length. This should be a very good value. As of 2008, Fevre is farming 30 hectares of vines biodynamically, including its holding in Vaillons. - Stephen Tanzer, 88-91 points
Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
£250 Buy
The first aromas here are open, floral and intense but behind there is imbedded minerality. Notes of citronelle, preserved lemon and a touch of apricot cmobine with the more smoky notes of flint and silex. On the finish there is impressive drive, showing that this is a wine with staying power too. Drink 2012-2019 - armit
Light green-tinged yellow. Pure, nuanced nose hints at stone fruits, ginger, cumin and silex Dense, spicy and sweet; concentrated, broad and mouthfilling but with a lovely light touch for the year. Nothing hard about this premier cru. Really saturates the palate on the aftertaste. - Stephen Tanzer, 90-93 points
Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent
£320 Buy
Less flamboyant on the nose than the other 1er crus, this is more serious and a step-up in complexity. Silex, oystershell and flint speak of a classic wine with great precision and scope. Less playful it may be but more intellectually challenging as a result. Drink 2013-2020 - armit
(prior to 2008, the label said Fourchaume Vignoble de Vaulorent) Pale yellow-green. Penetrating, high-pitched aromas of seashell, lime, violet and licorice. Very rich, seamless and silky, with the mouthfilling texture of a grand cru. This large-scaled wine boasts terrific underlying structure and builds impressively on the very long finish. - Stephen Tanzer, 91-93 points
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte des Bouguerots
£450 Buy
Magnums £460 Buy
On the nose this is breezy, showing good zip and energy. On the palate there is power too and the fruit character is dry and citric with a stony, mineral core. This is the most pure and classic perhaps of the quartet today, once again showing the excellence of this parcel. Drink 2014-2022 - armit
Pale, green-tinged color. Rather withdrawn nose hints at spearmint, spices, menthol and crushed stone lifted by a whiff of lime oil. Suave on entry, then penetrating, concentrated and energetic, with strong acidity giving excellent cut to the middle palate and carrying the wine's fruit. At once broad and aromatic on the back end, and extremely primary today. This will need at least five years of cellaring. These very small grapes produced just 40 hectoliters per hectare in 2009, according to Seguier. - Stephen Tanzer, 92-94 points
Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
£450 Buy
Magnums £460 Buy
On the nose notes of toast and spice combine with grapefruit and a little cream. The most elegant of the grand crus at Fèvre, this shows grace and friendly smile but there is still plenty of rigour here too and with time, the minerality will assert itself more fully. Drink 2013-2020 - armit
Pale lemon-green color. Highly expressive and pure aromas of lime zest, nutmeg, ginger and quinine. Fat on entry, then stuffed with ginger, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Displays a distinct sucrosite without any heaviness. Finishes impressively long and spicy. This reminded me of a cross between an Alsace riesling and pinot gris grand cru. Am I underrating this? - Stephen Tanzer, 91-93 points
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
£460 Buy
Magnums £470 Buy
Racy and precise on the nose, with notes of grilled nuts and gunflint, like the Vaulorent this is a little more introverted but built on a larger scale, with plenty of depth and density in evidence. Everything is in place here but don't hurry this one. Drink 2014-2022 - armit
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Spicy, ripe aromas of nut oil and smoky minerality. Fat and sweet but with good energy to balance the sucrosite A rich, fresh, rather backward wine that finishes with serious backbone and strong minerality. From similar Kimmeridgian marne and calcaire to the Vaulorent, notes Seguier. - Stephen Tanzer, 91-93 points
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
£525 Buy
Magnums £535 Buy
There is always a sense of completeness about Fèvre's Clos and this is no different. All of the elements are there: citric fruits with subtle stonefruits, gentle floral aromas and then the smoke, stones and crushed rocks that are so disitinctive in great Chablis. There is precision beside the power and a grand, stage-stealing finish that shows the pedigree. Another great Clos. Drink 2015-2025 - armit
Pale green-tinged yellow. Pure crushed rock and flinty minerality on the nose. Spicy, complex and very sweet; this manages to be simultaneously thick, seamless and weightless, with nothing aggressive above it. Best today on the explosive, mounting finish, which saturates the palate with iodiney minerality and crushed stone. As dry and youthful as this is, it still conveys the essentially gentle style of the vintage. - Stephen Tanzer, 92-95 points
Terms & Conditions
Prices - All prices are quoted In Bond (excluding Duty & VAT) and are per case of 12 bottles unless otherwise stated.
Delivery - Wines will be shipped in early 2011. On arrival, we can either: