Whilst the wines of this year are, and remain, atypical they are also – in terms of the finest terroirs of all – remarkably rich, pure and defined. But because the year was so dry and warm, they have all experienced lower than average acidities and therefore were particularly defined and gregarious from their birth. For some varieties this proved a serious defect, but for others much less so.

Two of the most important aspects of the Nebbiolo grape are that it is both one of the latest ripening and most naturally acidic of all the noble red varieties. In 2003, this was to be of crucial importance to its success in taming the excesses of the climatic bombardment it was subjected to. In addition, if it was grown on some of the finest proven terroir of Piedmont, and at an altitude of 1,000 feet plus, then the moderating effects were even greater. In the case of the five wines we are showcasing, each comes from single, specific vineyards which have, over many years, proved to be some of the fi nest within the already renowned vineyard areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. Whilst no one, least of all Angelo Gaja or Bruna Giacosa, would claim these to be classic wines for the long haul, they are individually hedonistic and remarkably expressive and enjoyable. To represent the best of this year, and provide wines which are drinking so well now, we have selected what we believe are five of the greatest sites in Piedmont.

What was also essential in 2003 was the skill, experience and intuition which was brought to bear by both Giacosa and Gaja. Between Angelo Gaja and Guido Rivella at Gaja, and Bruno Giacosa at Giacosa there is well over 100 years worth of knowledge of the vineyards and winemaking! In 2003 they brought to bear all their experience and magical touch. For example, both houses declassified over 50% of the normal crop, even in these historically great single vineyards. They both employed more sensitive touches with oak treatment: slightly less time ageing in less new wood as the tannic intensity of the grapes was already considerable.

In many ways, years like 2003 show why houses such as Gaja and Giacosa are regarded by so many as the best of their region.

To represent the best of this year – and provide wines which are drinking so well now – we have selected what we believe are five of the greatest sites in Piedmont.

We tasted these wines recently and found them all to be highly expressive and refined for the vintage. As importantly, clearly wines to be enjoyed now and over the next five years whilst waiting for more typical and famous years to mature. These are savoury and richly textured, and still maintain their sense of place and balance.

“We can look back on this as an extremely tranquil, if completely atypical vintage. The climatic conditions stressed the vineyard and vines, but the quality of our terroir proved to be a remarkable moderator. It allowed the harvest to be carried out in a regular manner, in accordance with the ripening of the single varieties and single vineyards.” Angelo Gaja

Bruno Giacosa 

Barolo Falletto 2003

£397.99 per 6 add to basket 

The nose offers a lovely scent of cherries and red fruits but there is no mistaking that this is a big wine with substantial tannic structure. In the hands of many others growers the conditions of 2003 proved too trying but Bruno has magically retained his hallmark elegance alongside the natural power of the vintage. Really well done. Drink from 2008-2018.

Barbaresco Asili 2003

£357.49 per 6 add to basket 

The just-bottled 2003 Barbaresco Asili is the only Barbaresco the ultraperfectionist Bruno Giacosa has decided to release in this diffi cult vintage and it shows why Giacosa, along with Angelo Gaja, is in a class of his own when it comes to Barbaresco. Medium-red in color, it offers an expressive nose along with delicate nuances of super-ripe red fruits, macerated cherries and alcohol. Made in an atypically lush style, yet balanced by a classic sense of structure and proportion, this medium to full-bodied Barbaresco is one of the highlights of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. 92 points, The Wine Advocate #167.

Angelo Gaja

Costa Russi 2003

£944.99 per 6 order here 

Costa Russi often displays the most exuberant nose and palate of elegant and crystal purity. Always dense and complex, with heightened mineral and taut fruit character, In 2003 the warmth of the year has made for a forward and voluptous style.

Sorì Tildìn 2003

£944.99 per 6 order here 

Often the most rounded and supple, this is a richly textured Sorì Tildìn. In 2003 the warmth of the year has made for a beautifully rounded and expressive style.

Sorì San Lorenzo 2003

£944.99 per 6 order here 

Sorì San Lorenzo is often the most powerful and austere in character. Very concentrated with aromas of fi ne herbs, minerals and spice. Always focused and refined in character. Again in 2003 the warmth of the year has made for a forward and rich style. Drink now and over the next 10 years.