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Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion
Château Haut Brion holds yet another rare distinction: it has remained primarily a power spot of France, then a great wine.
“La Mission Haut Brion - the quintessential insider’s wine” - Jancis Robinson MW, FT 24th May 2008
History
From Pepys’s diaries, the long ownership of the famous Pontac family, through the French Revolution, to its use as a makeshift World War Two hospital and its purchase by the American financier Clarence Dillon, Haut Brion has had one of the most colourful and celebrated histories of any château.
Today, it is still run by the Dillon family with the Duchesse de Mouchy and Prince Robert of Luxembourg at its head. The winemaking has been looked after by the Delmas family since 1921 and today it is the third generation in the form of Jean-Philippe Delmas, assisted by Jean-Philippe Masclef as maître de chai, who is responsible for ensuring the continuation of brilliance and success that Haut Brion has enjoyed, almost uninterrupted, in the post-war era.
The Estate
Haut Brion and its sister propery, La Mission Haut Brion, are almost entirely surrounded by the suburbs of Bordeaux. The vineyards are only 5km from the centre of the city and it is without doubt due to the fame and prestige of the property, ultimately stemming from its outstanding terroir, that has enabled the vineyard to continue unaffected by the spread of the urban sprawl.
In size, there are some 50 hectares of vines, including just over 3 hectares of old Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, planted on fine gravel beds of up to 18m in depth. The vineyards are just 27m above sea level, planted on gentle sloping mounds and there is a much higher percentage of Merlot here than would be found in the Médoc first growths.
The Wines
Haut Brion is the most distinctive of the First Growths, reflecting Pepys’s observation that it “hath a good and most particular taste that I never met with”. The trademark earthy, gamey, meaty tones of Graves wines are always evident and its capacity for longevity is well known. It is a quite sensational wine but not one that seeks to announce itself through garishness or hyperbole. Classic, aristocratic and refined it may be but it is also a marvellous drink, revitalising, full of subtlety, nuance and the most complex array of aromas when given time to develop.
The second wine, Bahans Haut Brion, has become hugely popular and offers terrific value and the incredibly rare Haut Brion Blanc is the greatest dry white wine of Bordeaux bar none and capable of standing up in competition to the best examples of Montrachet.
Although I enjoy participating in all aspects of the winemaking, I am not officially a “winemaker”. This work I leave up to the experts in my team, such as Jean-Philippe Delmas and Jean-Phillippe Masclef at our estates … I am naturally always pleased to offer my opinion to them as an interested party and as a wine-lover.
I do not have one person who has been a main influence in my life. I have sought inspiration from many sources and have used these to find my own path. I enjoy all kinds of music from Reggae to Rock, Blues, Folk, Country, Opera, Classical, Soul etc. Had I not been working in the world of wine I could very well have been getting involved in music somehow – although I gave up a career in screenwriting for wine. The fi rst screenplay that I co-wrote with my wife included many scenes with music (flamenco). My wife offered me voice lessons as a Christmas gift last year … so do look out for me on Top of the Pops! - Robert de Luxembourg
