Selection Anne-Claude Leflaive

Even for someone as naturally effervescent as Anne Claude Leflaive, when we met in late 2006 she seemed unusually animated. Brimming with excitement, she revealed that she had spent a few weeks during that year travelling to some of the more obscure parts of France (in vinous terms) meeting people producing wines from unique soils.

As you would expect from a Burgundian, it was the passion for terroir that had driven her adventures. “You should see the soil there!” she exclaimed whilst giving us a geology lesson on the unique granite soils that she had encountered in the Loire Valley, where the acclaimed Guy Bossard produces top-quality Melon de Bourgogne, imparting more flavour and character into a Muscadet than any of us had ever seen before or even imagined that was possible.

Working with the vignerons that she met around France on her journeys, Anne Claude is now offering a new collection of wines under the title ‘Selections Anne Claude’. The idea is to promote wines that would otherwise pass under the radar and that celebrate a uniqueness of place.

Stemming from an in-built aversion to homogenized, global blandness, Anne-Claude is taking the courageous step of acclaiming the unknown, allowing us to share her admiration for one of France’s greatest natural treasures, her rich variety and singularity.

"...my wine of the week is such good value, and should drink well for several years, that perhaps six bottles is a sensible minimum rather than too many.
These Leflaive selections are wines made by Anne-Claude’s fellow organic or biodynamic winemaker friends (amis vignerons) with special front labels featuring a picture of her and back labels giving a quite admirable amount of detail, including how long to keep the wine, what to eat with it, the background of the wine and winemaker and, all important in this case, the terroir. I know that many back labels claim to give this sort of information but too often it reads as though it were generated by a computer, or very junior member of staff. In this case, the advice seems entirely credible.The range comprises 22 wines in all apparently, and at Domaine Leflaive they have moved on to the 2006 vintage, but Armit have imported only three, all from the great 2005 vintage." - Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com, 2nd Sept. 2008

Guy Bossard is considered as one of the greatest growers of the Loire Valley and as a practioner of biodynamics since 1986, it is of no surprise that he and Anne-Claude quickly found a common language. His Domaine de l’Ecu is about 20 hectares in size and located near Nantes, in the heart of the Sèvre et Maine. The cuvée “Granit” comes from a 3 hectares plot of pebbles over granite subsoil. Salty and mineral, with high, nervy acidity and a clean, zippy citric fruit, this is Muscadet as you will never have seen it before. The energy and precision of the wine is remarkable and across the palate, the wine broadens out, calling for a large plate of fruits de mer.

"It is a quite stunning wine which can also be found under Bossard’s own Domaine de l’Ecu label. Les Amis Vignerons d’Anne-Claude Leflaive, Melon sur Granite 2005 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine is one of the most remarkable white wines I have come across this year. Like the Chardonnay, it brims with life and confidence, a quality which may sound whimsical in a wine but I really do think some wines have it and most don’t. This Muscadet is not especially full bodied – just 12% alcohol – but it has massive extract and character. Lime zest is one strong flavour but overall the wine is more mineral than fruity – presumably from the granite on which these Melon de Bougrogne grapes were grown - yet deliciously succulent. I found it an eye opener for its density, character and depth of flavour. I believe it is likely to drink well for at least another two years and possibly three, which is quite a feat for a Muscadet." - 18 points, Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com, 2nd Sept. 2008

Even the most seasoned explorer of France would have trouble finding the Pays Brionnais. Tucked away to the South West of Mâcon, adjacent to the better-known Charolais region and its famous boeuf, the Brionnais is very rural, with forestry dominating its western sector and dairy and beef cattle on the plains. This is rolling, fragmented country and there are just 40 hectares of vines left in the entire appellation. In one small corner is the Domaine des Fossiles, under the direction of Jean-Claude Berthillot who looks after just 3 hectares. His Chardonnay comes from a distinctive clay-rich soil, giving a subtle, relaxed and gentle style. There is floral ripeness on the nose and beguiling, mineral intensity on the palate. A versatile wine for a simple aperitif or with regional cuisine.

"This Brionnais wine comes from that bit of south west of Burgundy that is bisected by the upper river Loire. Made from young Chardonnay vines grown on clay soil, it is admirably characterful. I found a heady scent of hazelnuts with real life on the palate with more than a hint of something mineral. This polished wine is just 12.5% alcohol. It’s quite crunchy, like a crisp apple, and very confident. I gave it 16.5 points." - Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com, 2nd Sept. 2008

Price per 6 bottles inc. VAT £92.00 add to basket

Much closer to home, in fact across the hills behind Meursault, lives Anne-Claude’s cousin, Eric de Suremain. It is Eric’s good fortune to live at the beautiful Château de Monthélie, one of the most attractive properties in the Côte d’Or. His vineyards, though, are less celebrated: Monthélie will forever be compared to the more famous neighbouring Meursault for its whites and Volnay for its reds. In a vintage like 2005, the smaller villages perform at their best and this Monthélie Rouge is a pure delight, with vigorous, lively red fruits, and an easy coolness and purity. Tasted recently, it was performing brilliantly and when the sun starts to shine and the picnic rugs are taken out of hibernation, this is just the thing for the hamper alongside some pâté, cheese and charcuterie. Serve cool or lightly chilled.

"Anne-Claude Leflaive is one of the big names in burgundy; this wine, made by her cousin, Eric de Suremain, who also works to biodynamic principles, capitalises on that name, but not unfairly. A lovely wine that comes at you in gentle layers, with soft, sweetly ripe pinot fruit and a hint of minerals. Drink it with: Perfect for early summer - try it with a ham joint served with peas and other greens." 4 stars (out of 5) - Pinot Noir: Why you get what you pay for”, Victoria Moore, The Guardian, 24th May 2008

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